The Ultimate Guide to Ostuni & Ceglie Messapica: A Tale of Two Towns
Welcome to another chapter of our Puglia journey! If the previous guide to the Itria Valley’s enchanting towns of Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca left you wanting more, get ready for an equally captivating adventure. This time, we’re diving into the heart of authentic Puglian life by exploring two incredible towns that offer a perfect blend of culinary delights and breathtaking beauty, and sharing the very best things to do in Ceglie Messapica alongside the dazzling sights of Ostuni.
This guide is part of a larger series, so if you’re looking for a more comprehensive plan, be sure to check out our 10-Day Car Guide to Italy’s Hidden Gem: Unforgettable Puglia Road Trip.
This guide to Ostuni and Ceglie will help you plan your visit perfectly.
You can easily visit both of these gems in a single day, as they are a short, scenic drive apart. Ceglie Messapica, known as the “City of Art and Gastronomy,” offers a quieter, more authentic experience, while Ostuni, the dazzling “White City,” presents a dramatic, unforgettable visual spectacle. Together, they tell a story of Puglia’s diverse and wonderful charm.

Ceglie Messapica: The City of Gastronomy
Often overlooked by tourists rushing to the more famous towns, Ceglie Messapica is a true hidden gem — and a dream destination if you’re searching for authentic Puglian flavors, rich history, and the top things to do in Ceglie Messapica. Its name is a nod to its ancient Messapian origins, and its reputation as a gastronomic capital is well-earned. The town is a maze of charming, white-washed streets that lead to beautiful piazzas and elegant buildings, but its real soul is in its kitchens and bakeries.
Why Ceglie Messapica is the Perfect Base for Your Stay
While Ceglie is not as famous as other Puglian towns, it’s an ideal and highly underrated place to stay. The town is incredibly cozy and offers an authentic, local feel that larger, more touristy destinations often lack. You’ll find a fantastic selection of great restaurants serving traditional Puglian cuisine without the inflated prices. The historic center is easy to navigate on foot, allowing you to wander its beautiful streets and squares effortlessly. Plus, finding parking here is much easier than in other towns, with plenty of free parking options available, making it a stress-free base for your road trip adventures.
Where to Stay in Ceglie Messapica
A perfect place to stay in Ceglie Messapica is Casa di Cleto. This amazing accommodation is right behind the main square, very clean and full of all the facilities you could need during your stay. It even has a small balcony where you can enjoy your morning coffee while listening to the live choir music from the nearby church. Best of all, it comes with free parking.
Ceglie Messapica Gallery

Restaurant at Ceglie

Brillo Parlante Wine Bar

Casa di Cleto House

Gin Toneria Sign
Things to Do in Ceglie Messapica:
The town offers a wonderful mix of history, food and authentic Italian charm. If you’re planning your visit, here are the top things to do in Ceglie Messapica to make the most of your time:
- Wander the Historic Center: Lose yourself in the narrow, winding alleys of the centro storico. The quiet, residential feel allows you to experience a more authentic side of Puglian life. Look for the distinctive “chianche,” the local stone pavement that lines the streets.
- Piazza Plebiscito: This is the main square and the social heart of the town. Here you’ll find the majestic Collegiata Church and the beautiful Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower). It’s the perfect spot to sit at a cafe, sip an espresso and people-watch.
- Castello Ducale: The Ducale Castle dominates the highest point of the town, offering a glimpse into its long history. While some parts are not always open to the public, its presence adds a sense of grandeur to the skyline.
- Culinary Delights: This is the main reason to come here. Ceglie is famous for a few local specialties you absolutely must try:
- Biscotto di Ceglie: A delicious, almond-filled fig cookie that has a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status. You can find it in local bakeries all over town.
- Bombette: Little meat rolls typically filled with cheese and bacon, grilled to perfection. Find a local macelleria (butcher shop) that doubles as a restaurant for an authentic experience.
- Olive Oil: The region is a major producer of high-quality olive oil. Many shops offer tastings.
Food & Drink in Ceglie Messapica – Puglia Gastronomy
Ceglie Messapica is a paradise for foodies. You can find everything from casual trattorias to high-end restaurants. And if you are gin lover as me, don’t miss Gin Toneria, located directly in the main square. This popular spot offers an impressive selection of over 100 gins from all over Italy. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a refreshing drink and soak in the lively atmosphere of Piazza Plebiscito. I Capatosta is very nice family restaurant, we had a dinner here and will come back for sure.
Connecting Ceglie and Ostuni
The beauty of visiting these two towns is their proximity. The drive is short and scenic, and having a car allows you to easily hop between them at your own pace. You could spend the morning exploring the quiet, gastronomic streets of Ceglie Messapica, then go to some of the amazing beaches near Ostuni, and then spend the afternoon and evening getting lost in the dazzling white charm of Ostuni, perhaps catching the sunset from one of its many viewpoints.
Guide to Ostuni: The Dazzling White City
Just a short, 15-minute drive from the culinary haven of Ceglie, you’ll arrive at one of Puglia’s most iconic and breathtaking sights: Ostuni.
Perched majestically on a hilltop and glowing with its brilliant white buildings, the “Città Bianca” is a stunning vision against the backdrop of the Adriatic Sea. Walking through Ostuni is like stepping into a beautiful, sun-drenched labyrinth.

Accommodation in Ostuni – Where to Stay?
For a truly wonderful stay in the heart of Ostuni, I highly recommend the Relais Sant’Eligio. I had an amazing experience here—the rooms were elegant, and I particularly loved the breathtaking views of the city from my window. It’s the perfect place to feel like you’re truly part of Ostuni’s magic. The most important part if you are coming to Ostuni by car – this property offer free parking so you don’t have to worry about.
What to See & Do in Ostuni:
- Explore the Historic Center: The best way to experience Ostuni is to simply get lost. The town is a beautiful warren of winding streets, steep staircases, and hidden arches, all painted a brilliant white. The vibrant splash of color from potted plants and flowers provides a lovely contrast.
- The Blue Door: For an iconic photo op, seek out the famous blue door. It’s located right next to the Borgo Antico restaurant and is a must-stop for your Instagram feed.
- Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta: The Cathedral, with its beautiful Romanesque-Gothic facade and intricate rose window, sits at the highest point of the city. The piazza in front of it offers fantastic views.
- Arco Scoppa: This elegant archway connects the Bishop’s Palace to the Seminary Palace and is one of the most photographed spots in town.
- Piazza della Libertà: The main square at the foot of the old town is a bustling hub of activity. Here you’ll find the stunning Guglia di Sant’Oronzo, an ornate obelisk dedicated to the city’s patron saint.
- Shopping: Ostuni has a vibrant artisan scene. Explore the many boutiques and shops selling local ceramics, leather goods, and other handcrafted souvenirs.
- Enjoy the Views: Head to the panoramic terraces and viewpoints along the old city walls for breathtaking vistas of the surrounding olive groves, the coastline, and the sparkling Adriatic Sea.




Food & Drink in Ostuni
Ostuni offers a wide range of dining options, from casual cafes and pizzerias to sophisticated seafood restaurants. You will also find many gin shops hidden within the maze of streets. It is possible to do a free tasting of many world-famous gins, not only from Puglia but from all over Italy. While the famous Borgo Antico bar is a popular spot, it doesn’t take reservations and often has a long queue. My advice? Don’t waste your precious time waiting in line. Ostuni has a dozen other fantastic restaurants where you can have an equally great meal and experience. My personal choice was a charming spot right in front of the cathedral’s entrance, with tables spilling down the stairs—an unforgettable dining experience.
Enjoying a spritz at a cafe in Piazza della Libertà or having dinner on a terrace with a view of the valley are must-do experiences.
Driving & Parking in Ostuni
Like many historic Italian towns, the center of Ostuni is a ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone). It’s best to park your car outside the old city walls and explore on foot.
- Parking: There are several large paid parking lots just outside the ZTL. Look for “Parcheggio” signs along Viale Pola or around Parco Comunale. Parking costs are generally reasonable, and it’s a short, pleasant walk into the historic center. Also, you can leave the car HERE.
- Navigating: Once you’ve parked, the old town is a maze of stairs and narrow streets. Wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to walk!
Ostuni Beaches: Your Coastal Escape
While Ostuni itself is a hilltop town, the coast is just a short drive away, offering a wide choice of beautiful beaches on the Adriatic. You can easily spend a relaxing afternoon or a full day soaking up the sun and swimming in the clear blue waters.
- Lido Morelli: A long stretch of sandy beach with both free public access and lidos with sun loungers for rent. It’s a great option for families. Google Maps Location
- Spiaggia Mezzaluna: Mix of sandy and rocky beach, there are free and paid parts of the beach. Very nice for spending afternoon and waiting for the sunset, also has a nice beach bar. Google Maps Location
If you want even more options, you can easily drive north to the coastal towns we covered in our previous article, like Monopoli, which has its own fantastic city beaches.
Puglia’s Magical Light Displays: The Luminarie
One of the most enchanting aspects of a Puglian evening is the incredible display of street lights. Throughout the region, especially during festive seasons and summer months, many towns are decorated with magnificent illuminated archways and elaborate installations known as “luminarie.”
Ceglie Messapica and Ostuni are no exception. After a delicious dinner, you can wander through the historic centers to admire the beautiful, intricate light decorations that transform the white-washed streets into a magical spectacle. These light displays are a core part of the local festival culture and create a truly romantic and unforgettable atmosphere.
While Ostuni and Ceglie Messapica show the white-cities side of Puglia, the region also has an incredible coastline.
If you’re continuing your road trip south, Gallipoli is one of the best seaside towns in Puglia, known for its old town, beaches, and sunset aperitivo spots.
Conclusion: A Perfect Puglian Pairing
Ceglie Messapica and Ostuni represent two distinct but equally wonderful facets of the Puglia experience. One is a quiet, culinary haven that rewards those who seek out authentic flavors. The other is a magnificent, visually stunning spectacle that takes your breath away. Visiting them both allows you to appreciate the full breadth of what makes this region so special. So, get ready to taste the heart and see the soul of Puglia in these two unforgettable towns!
Puglia Road Trip
Our road trip through the heart of Puglia continues, as we leave the stunning white towns behind and venture further south. Join us on our next adventure, where we’ll explore the historical gems of Lecce and Otranto, discovering the rich Baroque architecture and pristine coastal landscapes of the Salento Peninsula.
